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The Casino Boy Graveyard
Woooooo-woooo.
Do you hear the eerie, bone-chilling wind? Boo! What was that?!
Folks, I get the chills just wandering around in here, among
the tombstones of clip joints and fancy gambling halls that
have gone on to the big Strip in the sky. Stay and wander
around for a while, if you dare. Visit the rotting bones of
the places where money was won, money was lost, and the good
times came down when the walls did. All of the places described
were open while CheapoVegas was going. So, I guess at least
we outlasted them.
Aladdin
They call it Hubris. That is, when outsiders
roll into town and think they know better than the locals
and old-timers how to run a casino. The Aladdin was
a disaster from the start. Getting to it from the Strip
was difficult, and the parking garage was on the far
side of a truly mediocre shopping mall in the back.
The Arabian decor looked like leftovers from a grade-school
play: a tacky gold lamé lamp and plastic jewels
glued to pillars. The casino had a gaping hole in the
middle that opened onto the visual feast that is the
hotel registration desk. Whoop-de-doo. Above the casino
was a separate, fancy high-roller casino called the
London Club that was usually as dead as a corpse. In
the beginning, the London Club johns had free razors,
cologne and other goodies. Later, the owners realized
deadbeats like us were scooping those up and just went
back to paper towels and soap. In the uninspired mall
was an dreary mass entertainment: a simulated rainstorm.
Seriously. There were holes in the roof that dumped
rain in a pool underneath. Oh, and a PA system broadcasted
thunder sounds. The Aladdin dissolved into bankruptcy,
only to be taken over by a group of investors who had
previously failed miserably at ripping off the Hard
Rock Cafe with their über-lame movie-themed eateries.
So, with fresh paint, a few tacky Hollywood props, the
removal of the lamp and more bad shows, it became the
Hotel Planet Hollywood. In a few years the cycle may
repeat.
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Frontier
The Frontier became
the New Frontier right around the time it also became
the Sucking Frontier. New ownership tacked on the "new"
because that was cheaper than actually sprucing the
place up. So, it spent its last years in decline and
then static decay. In all our time going to Las Vegas,
the Frontier was never one of the nicest places in town.
Even in the late 80s they gave rooms to $5 blackjack
players and free buffets to almost anyone. It once had
a floor show, though, and the pool was always very cool
because it had a twelve-foot deep end. The Atrium Tower
had suites for all guests long before oversized rooms
became a must-have for snooty visitors. The best performance
at the place was a long-running production of the culinary
worker strike that marred the joint's entrance for most
of our formative years. The second-to-last owners, the
Elardis, were adamant about keeping unions out, so the
strikers would harass and pelt guests, yelling obscenities
and pretending to write down license plate numbers as
you went in. The final owner, Phil Ruffin, let in the
union workers, but very few repair or maintenance men.
Still, it's hard to feel bad for, or miss, a place that
fell into such a depressing funk. If we did, we'd visit
our sister and her cats more often.
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Boardwalk
When
we first started going to Las Vegas, the Boardwalk seemed
like a dumpy little casino in the middle of nowhere
with a marquee advertising 29-cent breakfasts. Eventually,
the city built up around it with the Monte Carlo and
New York New York, and even the Boardwalk got bigger.
But it still remained dumpy. A roller- coaster and Ferris
wheel on the roof were major disappointments because
neither really worked. The scary clown mouth you walked
through to enter the casino was also a bit intimidating.
But nothing was as horrifying as their second floor
buffet, which took honors for the worst in town as long
as it operated. By the sportsbook was a snack bar serving
counterfeit White Castles, giant hot dogs and nasty
strawberry shortcakes. Upstairs, too, was the showroom,
featuring "tribute" bands for Prince and Elvis.
MGM-Mirage owned the Boardwalk and tore it down to make
way for another megaproject.
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| Bourbon Street
A long time ago,
Bourbon Street had blackjack tables and craps in its
tiny casino behind the Barbary Coast, and they tried
to be relevant. It was once a pretty nice hotel for
the money. Over time, though, the tables disappeared
and more low-maintenance slots took their place. Then,
low-maintenance became the theme of the place, and the
room showed their age. No longer were they a good deal,
they were just cheap and dumpy. The tiny showroom still
had shows, though, from aspiring stars who paid rent
for the room and promoted themselves. They included
dozens of singers and comics whose Las Vegas careers
started and then quickly ended right there. Oh, and
the vulgar hypnotist Dr. Naughty. Harrah's now owns
the Bourbon Street property and will, presumably, build
another Strip giant on it once they get their hands
on the Barbary Coast property it is next to.
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Castaways
Located among dilapidated and vacant
motels midway between downtown and the Boulder Strip,
the Castaways was first the Showboat. As the Showboat,
it was a proud place with bowling lanes, loose slots
and fine blackjack. The food wasn't fancy, but it was
a solid value. Then, as other bigger, fancier locals'
casinos opened and stole its customers, the Showboat
lost its way. It found new owners, was renamed Castaways
and adopted a half-hearted tropical island theme. The
food was still all right, but there was little money
to spruce up the place. It got tired and ground down
before finally making a last ditch effort to appeal
to Las Vegas' large hispanic population. When that failed,
so did the Castaways. The Castaways is just a vacant
lot now. Another casino will not go in its place because
the location is so dingy.
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Desert Inn
In the ever-escalating war to be the
poshest, swankiest hotel, Las Vegas buried the classiest
place it may ever see. The Desert Inn was the most underrated
and elegant casino on the Strip until Steve Wynn knocked
it over to put up another gaudy behemoth. The restaurants
were all first class, from the high-end steakhouse to
the superb coffee shop. The casino didn't dazzle, it
swaddled you in rich leathers and the city's most professional
dealers. Entertainment was mostly limited to headliners
such as Crystal Gayle, Dennis Miller and Don Rickles.
Steve Wynn bought the Desert Inn, promised to keep it
open, but quickly shuttered it and tore it down to make
the big, brown Wynn. Not other hotel has captured the
elegance and class of the Desert Inn.
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Key Largo
Few, if
any, will miss the Key Largo, a Quality Inn motel
off the Strip with the one of the smokiest casinos
outside downtown. The bar, which advertised a 24 happy
hour, never was happy. Just cheap greasy food, cheap
booze and the kind of locals who love those in large
quantities. The amateurish tropical mural on the walls
made it feel like you were getting loaded in a special
education third-grade classroom. The casino consisted
of a couple of blackjack tables and a lot of video
poker, many of which offered full-pay. The hotel had
basic rooms, just like any other Quality Inn, but
the courtyard in the middle had a nice pool and the
feel of a cool, moist grotto which was a pleasant
surprise. The Key Largo will likely become a site
for condos or timeshares, but not another hotel-casino.
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Klondike
Two-hundred rooms, a gold-rush theme,
and way south near the "Welcome to Las Vegas"
sign on Las Vegas Boulevard. The Klondike stunk like
a dead grandma who'd been smoking in her casket, but
the ten-cent roulette wheel was a ton of fun. Where
else in Vegas will they hand over ten tall stacks of
chips for twenty bones? You could play all day and put
away the Foster's Lagers, feeling like a gazillionaire.
That is, until you ate the under-two-dollar spaghetti
dinner. Then, you just felt sort of queasy. The casino
was tiny and the sportsbook had one television. The
theme had fallen into disrepair and disregard, with
the exception of a tiny model of a chuck wagon that
made you think a dog would come tearing through soon,
chasing it. The rooms were like those of any old independently-owned
interstate motel, and they wrapped around an olympic-sized
pool. The klondike was bought by developers with plans
to build, what else, a condo-hotel-casino. Yawn.
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Maxim
Before the hotel became the Westin Casuarina,
but after it was the Playboy Hotel and Casino, the Maxim
proudly went from cool, little hotel to dump over about
twenty years. Only a block off the Strip, the Maxim
had a good location and a nice-sized casino to go with
what was once a cool, modern glass facade. However,
time and ownership indifference were not kind to the
hotel, and the first place Matt ever ate a Steak and
Lobster special sunk into disrepair and inactivity.
The inventory of table games shrunk, and the slots got
old and creaky. The carpet faded and the rooms got crappy.
Eventually, the place had no choice but to shutter and
either be demolished or remade. The Westin Casuarina
is a fancier place, for now, but still struggles to
attract players.
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Nevada Palace
As we said of this place in our original
review, the smoke is so thick not only can you cut it
with a knife, you can butter it too. Who knows if what
you walked on was carpet or a half-inch of pressed ash.
There are other smoky dumps in town, but this place
out on Boulder Highway was like a magnet for locals
who loved to stuff their mouths with four, five, six
cigarettes at a time and have their oxygen tanks wired
directly into their tracheotomy holes. And everything
about this place was low-rent all the way, from the
dingy cafe food to the faded motel rooms out back. Maybe
that's why we sort of liked it. The live table pit was
a sad affair with a mini-tub for craps that was rarely
manned, a few blackjack tables with bored dealers, and
a routlette wheel that was occasionally as cheap as
a dime a spin. The poker room had a pair of lonely tables
tucked into what may have once been a storage closet.
The tables were more often used for storing boxes than
for playing. Actually, we never did see a poker game
here. The sports book was a small counter directly in
front of one casino entrance, so watching a game would
be interrupted every few minutes by someone tromping
by. A few cheap chairs were propped in front of a handful
of fuzzy 13-inch televisions. I first discovered the
Palace when visiting my parents at Sam's Town down the
street and loved that they had video poker machines
that took dimes. Those machines went away. What stayed,
though, was the impending sense that this was the waiting
room of the damned. Nobody ever gambled or ate here
because they wanted to. It was the last resort for people
killing time until lung cancer finished them off.
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San Remo
The San Remo seemed
to have a million different names, but spent the end
of its life as a less-than-half-assed Italian hotel-casino
before transforming itself into the boobs-and-wings
themed Hooters. Located just east of the Tropicana,
the San Remo never capitalized well on the traffic generated
by the behemoths going up nearby. The casino had a few
cheap table games and a ton of slots. Entertainment
was restricted to a tiny stage that was cramped for
a duet, but shoulder-to-shoulder for trios or more.
The theme was carried out through a lame deli called
Luigi's with bad Italian murals on the wall. Otherwise,
food offerings included a good prime rib in the coffee
shop and some bad sushi. The hotel rooms were okay,
the motel rooms in the back were awful. The pool was
better than you'd expect, and never crowded. under the
hardwood and paint, the current Hooter's is still just
the San Remo.
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Stardust
From its
mobbed up past to its classic neon and goofy fountains
out front, the Stardust was a piece of Vegas history.
By the time we started going to Las Vegas, the place
was a middle-class joint that just seemed like a sprawling
casino and a mess of motel buildings. But you could
tell from the signs and the old men playing big money
inside that it was once something special. Then came
the West Tower, a monolith of nicer rooms that pointed
the direction the place was going: to less history
and to more practicality. Still, the Villas and some
of the old rooms gave the old Vegas feel with balconies
overlooking rolling lawns and a pool that actually
went to 12 feet deep. The sports book and poker room
were full of characters who weren't exactly out of
Damon Runyon stories, but maybe the children of his
characters. On our first visit, the Stardust's big
feathered-headress production show (everyone had one)
was"Lido de Paris" and the star was a man
named Bobby Berosini who had trained orangutans. That
night, Mr. Berosini was shown on the news beating
one of his orangutans with what looked like a blackjack,
and this was the leadstory. Paying forty bucks to
watch apes make faces was every day life, but knowing
they only did it out of fear, well, that was newsworthy.
In later years, the Stardust had a revolving door
for cheapened entertainment, including a long stint
by a weak-voiced Wayne Newton, some bad mentalists
and hypnotists and, at the end, a lame show with topless
girls humping classic cars. Its time only came because
its owners stopped caring.
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Vacation Village
Somewhere south of the rest of Las Vegas
sat Vacation Village, accessible only by car or a long,
sad bus ride. The place sprawled out in two-story motel
buildings painted adobe brown with southwestern turquoise
accents. Roadrunner and Kokopelli images were prevalent.
Inside was a classic low-roller joint with two-dollar
blackjack, and free hot dogs at the bar when you played
the video poker. A huge stage with a massive projection-TV
screen rocked the joint with the worst of the seventies.
The big appeal here was a wheel of fortune that anyone
showing an airline ticket could spin. Cash prizes went
up over one hundred bucks, and we hit twenty a couple
of times. The rooms were like at a Super 8, and all
looked out onto a sprawl of hot blacktop and dirt.
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Westward Ho
The Ho never pretended to be anything
more than it was: the world's largest motel. Located
on the North Strip, between Circus Circus and the Stardust,
the Ho had a small, low-ceilinged, dark casino with
cheap games, cheap food like the 3/4 pound Megadog and
27 oz. Slushee margaritas for 99 cents. The buffet was
bottom-of-the-barrel. Entertainment was practically
nonexistent, except for a musician in the lounge whose
claim to fame was his crazy hats, and the occasional
dinner show featuring Z-level talent and London Broil.
The 777 rooms were scattered over a bunch of two-story
motel buildings that stretched so far from the casino
they had a shuttle to pick you up from the deepest reaches.
The Ho closed to make way for still more pricey condos
for yuppies.
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